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Eastern & Oriental Express’s Rising New Star: Epic Thailand

3 Mar

Ulf Buchert, senior train manager of the Eastern & Oriental Express, visits with IRT's Eleanor Hardy (in dark blue) and other representatives from American tour operators. Behind Mrs. Hardy is Valerie Ottofaro, Director of Sales for Orient Express Trains & Cruises. Across from Mrs. Hardy is Elizabeth Calhoun of Orient Express.

It’s hard to contain my excitement: the gorgeous Eastern & Oriental Express will be my home for six nights. I’m on its first Epic Thailand itinerary—a 7-day escorted tour to jungles, tiny villages and temple-studded cities—and I am thrilled to be on board. Hualamphong station in Bangkok, Thailand, buzzed with activity as we boarded at about 3 p.m. on Feb. 20. A troop of young musicians and dancers dressed in bright yellow and red led us on board.

But now all is quiet, and our train, readied for departure, is a haven of peace and beauty. I open my cabin door and am amazed:

My state cabin on the Eastern & Oriental Express was roomy and comfortable with plenty of storage. All photos by Eleanor Hardy for IRT

Spacious and cool, my state compartment contains a long sofa, upholstered chair and velvet chair and matching ottoman. The sofa and upholstered chair make up into comfy twin-sized beds at night. In the middle is a small table and lovely lamp. Along the two large picture windows is a long, folding table. On it is an orchid-filled silver vase and a light green Celadon porcelain dish full of fresh fruit.

“Welcome on board, Madame Hardy!” says my steward.

I admire the details:  silk curtains, embroidered valance, marquetry in light blond and dark wood, whose border around the top of the room picks up the theme of a medallion on the wall: lotus blossoms and jungle vines. It’s a light, fresh look of the orient.

I admire the ensuite bathroom: mahogany seat, granite-topped sink, mirror,  and cabinet with four shelves; Bulgari shower gel, shampoo and soap; large fluffy white towels with E&O logo. The foot-wide closet with padded hangers has two shelves at the bottom. Another cupboard has a safe and two shelves, plus two brass luggage racks.

The fabric on the sofa and upholstered chair is a rich combination of rose and green, coordinating beautifully with the rose velvet. And the lamps and light fixtures pick up those colors, not only in my cabin but throughout the train. They are lovely.

Despite my excitement, I’m determined to unpack. I stack shirts on one brass shelf, pants on another. I hang dresses in the closet and cram my underwear in a cupboard which also contains a safe. My steward whisks my suitcase away. (I can have it back whenever I want, he promises.) In this little home away from home, there is a place for everything. Even the ottoman opens for storage. And hooray! There are two great plugs for recharging, complete with converters to match my equipment.

This tray arrived daily about 5 p.m., always decorated with an orchid.

Soon, the train is rolling out of Bangkok, and it’s tea time. My steward arrives with a lovely tray: a crisp linen cloth is laid with a silver tea set, decorated with a ginko leaf pattern. The porcelain cups and plates are pale green, and the little linen napkin sports the E&O logo. A basket of traditional Thai sweets tempts. Tucked into the sweets: a bright fuchsia orchid blossom .

“This train,” I think as we edge out of Bangkok, “well deserves to be in our pantheon of the World’s Top 25 Trains.”  But, at this point, little do I know the main reason why.

Here is the link to our photo album. https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=39059&id=146283798751515

If you have been on the train or to Thailand, let us know about your favorite experiences.

Railway Journeys 2011: “Wish Book” for World’s Top 25 Trains

2 Feb

Society President Eleanor Hardy on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

The 60-page, all-color IRT Society’s Best-Loved Railway Journeys 2011™ is out the door, and I must say, we’re proud parents. (Download a PDF copy here.)

New for 2011:

We hope you’ll love the detail and photographs — 85% of them are from our staff and members.  We also hope you love the reporting, the detail, the facts. Enjoy!

Once you take a look, please let us know what you think. Is it useful, beautiful, inspiring?

Sun Setting on the Sunlander

11 Nov

Queensland Rail’s Brisbane-Cairns “Sunlander”

It is so, so discouraging one day to get a fantastic report on a train and just about two days later, to get a report that the powers that be are planning to shut it down.

The report we received was from world traveler Dr. Vincent DiNapoli. He loved all of the extras, the service, the warmth, the old-fashioned happy surprises that happen on a lovely top-class train. And he found all of this in Queenslander Class on the Sunlander, which runs 1,045 miles several times a week between Brisbane and Cairns. He just took this train this summer, along with all the other major routes in Australia. And Queenslander Class on the Sunlander was his favorite. (He took Gold Kangaroo Class — not the new luxury class Platinum, on the Ghan and Indian Pacific.)  We quoted him here.

Then we got the news that Queensland Rail will be running this train only through 2013, when it will be replaced with a faster tilt-train. We are sure the rail-travel lovers of the world won’t be as happy with this, and it’s such a shame. I hate to be a naysayer, but what good does it do to save a few hours on such a scenic route? Speed is not what people want on a vacation train. Beauty, scenery, camaraderie: there’s  the ticket.

So word to the wise: Ride the Sunlander in Queenslander Class while you can. You might have until the end of 2013.

The Royal Scotsman’s Grand Tour-One Man’s Impression

5 Nov

IRT Society members dine aboard the Royal Scotsman, 2005.

Eleanor and I joined 17 IRT Society members in 2005 for an incredible week on the Royal Scotsman. As I’ve said elsewhere, the train ranks as one of the top three in our “life-list” of luxury trains collected over our 27-year career in this business.

But…we have not done the “Grand Tour of Great Britain.” And we’re envious of those who have.

Based on the reports we’re getting, this week-long jaunt  through Scotland, Wales and England looks fantastic. Looks to me like the Orient-Express company wants to make this tour an iconic “must-do,” much like the annual Paris-Istanbul run of their much acclaimed Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

IRT Society traveler Sam Hall did the trip this year and told me: “It’s one of the best trips I ever had. The staff was superb. And I was really impressed with the itinerary.”

Meanwhile, here’s how one of the Royal Scotsman staff, Train Host John Gritten, described the 2010 Grand Tour:

“This unique tour was without question the most memorable of my five years as Host with The Royal Scotsman. It was the train’s first ever journey around Scotland, England and Wales and the 33 guests, from nine countries, enjoyed many exclusive experiences throughout the seven-night trip. Many of the guests mentioned that unannounced ‘surprises,’ such as the Male Voice Choir at Gwydir Castle and Raymond Blanc’s personal welcome at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, were highlights of the journey. We are already thinking up new and unexpected special events for next year’s tour.”

Over the next few days, I’ll post Mr. Gritten’s day-by-day commentary of the 2010 Grand Tour, with appropriate links.

Congratulations to the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad!

4 May

I was thrilled to hear this news from long-time friend and Pullman Club member, L. T. Murray, owner of the Mount Ranier Scenic Railroad. Tom and his crew have won the 2010 State Historic Preservation Officer’s Valerie Sivinski Award for outstanding achievement in historic preservation. The object of their devotion? Willamette Locomotive #2. The awards ceremony is today, May 4.   To learn more about the railroad, click here.  Or go to their web site:  Congratulations Tom & Crew!

Rayonier #2 Willamette Geared Locomotive