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Elephants, ceramics, markets: Which would you choose?

9 Feb
Eastern & Oriental Express

View from Eastern & Oriental Express compartment window. Photo by Jim Butkus

I knew I was going to like the Epic Thailand journey we are offering next year on the Eastern & Oriental Express.  But little did I know the incredible array of choices our travelers will enjoy. In Chiang Mai alone, there are two all-day choices and 10  half-day options. Each sounds more tantalizing than the next.

I leave next Thursday for Bangkok to prepare for our 2012  Owners’ Choice Epic Thailand journey (Feb. 26-March 3). Which of these included off-train experiences would you choose if you were doing this trip?

This is just a partial list:

  • A full-day visit to the Pang Song Nature Trails Project, a new collaboration between tourism interests and a local village working to protect the stunning Mae Lai Community Forest
  • A Day at the Mandarin Orient Dhara Dhevi Resort, with its spa and two swimming pools
  • Antiques and textile shopping
  • An introduction to Thai ceramics, meeting a ceramics expert John Shaw, educated at Oxford and a lecturer at Chiang Mai University, at his home and viewing his personal and private collection
  • A visit to an elephant camp, where visitors can see them at work – or even ride one
  • Tour of Doi Suthep Temple, an important monastery and symbolic landmark of Chiang Mai.
  • Tour of Pak Chong “wet market,” a truly “authentic” institution that is giving way to supermarkets and convenience stores, says the ground operator in Thailand “But be prepared for some strong smells and sights: all parts of animal produce will be on display.  This is ideal for those who wish to see a slice of daily rural life in Thailand. Due to lack of refrigeration in the old days, most Asians do daily marketing at the wet markets.”
  • Khao Yai National Park will be the obvious choice for nature and adventure seekers,. Khao Yai was Thailand’s first national park. Today, it is the second largest in Thailand, and along with the surrounding mountains was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This will include hiking one of three trails, each lead by a highly qualified park guide.

What would you choose?

Of course, the Eastern & Oriental Express is one of our World’s Top 25 Trains™ — and reason enough to go by itself — as shown in this short, experiential video: [wpvideo Uwm1S0aE]

Railway Journeys 2011: “Wish Book” for World’s Top 25 Trains

2 Feb

Society President Eleanor Hardy on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

The 60-page, all-color IRT Society’s Best-Loved Railway Journeys 2011™ is out the door, and I must say, we’re proud parents. (Download a PDF copy here.)

New for 2011:

We hope you’ll love the detail and photographs — 85% of them are from our staff and members.  We also hope you love the reporting, the detail, the facts. Enjoy!

Once you take a look, please let us know what you think. Is it useful, beautiful, inspiring?

Want to visit the best of Central Europe?

19 Jan
I loved seeing these young dancers at their portrait session

The little dancers pose at the Krakow Royal Palace

I arrived in Dresden in snowfall, having a remarkable conversation with a fellow traveler on the ICE. I came to scout Dresden for our Society of IRT tours. She, in silk scarf and dramatic cape, came to bury her husband, an opera star at Dresden’s Semperoper. You’ll never forget Dresden, she confided.  The train rounded the bend, the city shined before us.

And that is why I am delighted the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has decided to do a tour which includes overnights in Dresden, as well as Krakow. The train has organized in these two cities five-star hotels, transfers and some fantastic, guided outings and events for the lucky few guests. But the train has wisely left plenty of free time for guests to explore on their own. I think the mix is just about perfect.

In Dresden, the Frauenkirche, is a powerful symbol of reconciliation. When I saw it, the rubble, caused by Allied bombing in 1945, lay in huge, numbered piles.  The rebuilding began in 1994; it was reconsecrated in 2005, with the help of donations from around the world. Now it is busy with services, tours and concerts.

Dresden’s river front is  gorgeous…Just walking around, visiting the art galleries, the palace, cafes, the opera, is a ball.  The Dresden Semperoper has tours during many days to visit the amazing building itself.

You also won’t forget Krakow.

Krakow, whose entire historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is another great wandering place.  The memorable Cathedral,  Wawel Royal Castle on the hill, the wall around the city. A Polish military band, 50 at least, decked out in fabulous red and blue costumes, first grimaced for their portrait, then filled the square with their music.  A battalion of young dancers decked out in their costumes posing for photographs in the courtyard of the castle charmed all who were lucky enough to see them.

All of these experiences just happened on their own. Dresden, Germany and Krakow, Poland, are just two of the cities in the region that are so worthy to visit. You can get to both of them from major city centers by regular train. But in the one itinerary with the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express this summer, they are linked by luxury train and plenty of time on your own in between.

Do  you have favorite memories visiting either of these two wonderful places?

Opera & Ballet Deluxe Rail Tours in Russia/Ukraine; Mongolia

17 Dec

We were thrilled to welcome Iain Dacre and Georgina Sprunt of GW Travel in Manchester, England, to the Society of IRT  this week. GW operates deluxe railway journeys in Russia, China and India on four of our World’s Top 25 Trains: Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian, Shangri-La Express, Deccan Odyssey and Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. We hosted them at one of our great locally owned restaurants, and learned what’s new for next year and 2012:

Holding IRT's recently presented Magellan Awards are, from left: Angela Walker, VP-Operations, IRT; Owen Hardy, CEO/Publisher, IRT; Eleanor Hardy, President, IRT; Georgina Sprunt, Sales Manager, N. America, GW; Iain Dacre, Managing Director, GW.

Opera & Ballet Deluxe Train Tour: Since Owen and I are big-time opera fans, this “Dr. Zhivago-style” winter-wonderland tour through Russia and the Ukraine really appeals. So many times, we travel to places when the opera is not in season, a huge disappointment. Instead, book now for a deluxe hotel-on-wheels adventure combining opera and ballet tickets (including entrance to the Bolshoi and Mariinksy Theatres) with all meals, all gratuities, all transfers, all hotels needed. Imagine trying to do this on your own; with this program, all you do is show up and enjoy!

Pricing: It had to happen. Prices for most GW tours will going up by as much as 15%, with the first increases coming in the next few months. So book now to guarantee your price for 2011 and 2012.  Does your “bucket list” include the Trans-Siberian Express, the Trans-Mongolian (see below), the Silk Road, Tibet, China or India? If so, you’d be wise to call us now. (800-478-4881 in the U.S.; 502-454-0277 elsewhere). Or email: tourdesk@irtsociety.com.  About pricing: remember all GW trips include all arrival/departure transfers, all gratuities, all meals, all drinks with lunch and dinner. This makes their trips a true vacation: you don’t have to worry about a thing.

Trans-Mongolian: If you enjoyed the Trans-Siberian Express from Moscow to Vladivostok, consider the new Trans-Mongolian itinerary: Beijing-Ulaan Baatar-Moscow. This one’s going on our bucket list. (Well, OK, in addition to the opera/ballet tour.)

So let us know what you think about these itineraries. Is opera  your thing? What about the Trans-Mongolian?

India’s Maharajas’ Express Joins World’s Top 25 Trains List

29 Nov
The Maharajas' Express

©The Society of International Railway Travelers Photo by Angela Walker

The Society of International Railway Travelers® is pleased to christen the newest member of its World’s Top 25 Trains list, The Maharajas’ Express. The Society announced the 2011 list for release Nov. 30.

The Indian luxury train began service in March and boasts 19 cars (excluding staff and generator cars). The train’s four itineraries begin and end in Delhi or Mumbai and include visits to such iconic locales as Agra, Varanasi, Jaipur and Jodhpur.

The MaharajasExpress brings to four the number of Indian trains on the Society’s list of World’s Top 25 Trains, a remarkable feat, said Society CEO Owen C. Hardy. “India has proven time and again its incredible commitment to rail — not just luxury service but service for the everyday person. Congratulations to the builders, owners and operators of the Maharajas’ Express.

Other trains in India on the World’s Top 25 List, returning this year, are the Deccan Odyssey luxury train, which offers touring from as far afield as Mumbai to New Jalpaiguri; the Palace on Wheels, a first-class touring train in royal Rajasthan, and the tiny Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in W. Bengal, which runs up to the hill station of Darjeeling, and whose remarkable engineering and history earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.

Meanwhile, Angela Walker, Vice President for Operations for The Society of IRT, recently returned from India and issued a glowing report about the Maharajas’ Express. Find her report here.

The trains on the Society’s World’s Top 25 Trains list come from all over the world, and just about every continent.  The Society welcomes comments on our list. It is based on extensive first-hand experience on trains the world over by owners, staff, writers and members, who evaluate them extensively upon their return from travel. “These trains are the best of the best,” said Hardy. “We salute them for providing amazing and adventurous experiences for those lucky enough to take them.”

The World’s Top 25 Trains-2011

(Note:  Trains are listed by region and are not ranked within the list.  * signifies luxury train; + means the train provides a luxury service option on board.)

Africa

Pride of Africa*

Blue Train*

Asia

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

Deccan Odyssey*

Eastern & Oriental Express*

Maharajas’ Express*

Palace on Wheels

Shangri-La Express

Europe

Bernina Express

British Pullman*

Danube Express

El Transcantabrico*

Flam Railway

Glacier Express

Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express

Royal Scotsman*

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express*

North America

Royal Canadian Pacific*

The Canadian

Rocky Mountaineer

South America

Andean Explorer

Hiram Bingham*

Australia

Ghan+

Indian Pacific+

Sunlander+

The Society of International Railway Travelers® is an award-winning publishing company and full-service travel agency and tour operator based in the U.S. and serving clients from around the world. To order a complimentary emailed PDF of the IRT Society’s Best-Loved Railway Journeys 2010, register on the company web site:http://www.irtsociety.com/.  To order the printed version, please contact the company for payment details. The Society specializes in luxury, deluxe and railfan journeys around the world.

The Maharajas’ Express: Live like Indian Royalty

29 Nov

The Maharajas’ Express calls itself “India’s most luxurious train.” Last month I traveled to India to see if the train indeed lives up to its claim. Almost immediately upon boarding the beautiful, new maroon coaches of the Maharajas’ Express, I knew it would. The luxury was obvious, and I knew it would quickly be added to World’s Top 25 Trains list issued by The Society of International Railway Travelers.®

The train was custom-built and began operating in March 2010, so I was keen on exploring every inch. I boarded at the Rajah Club and scurried around to peek into each of the four cabin types—from the smallest Deluxe Suites (at 110 square feet, still quite roomy for train cabins) to the Presidential Suite, which takes up an entire train car and comprises an unbelievable 5 rooms (two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a large sitting room). I was impressed with the large windows, beautiful furnishings, storage space, bathrooms with glass-door shower, fluffy towels and full amenities (all-natural soap, shampoo, conditioner and lotions).

But it was the dining cars that excited me most. The Rang Mahal (Color Palace) and Mayur Mahal (Peacock Palace) are the two lovely restaurant cars. Both seat 42 passengers and offer the same multi-course menu with the choice of either Indian or continental cuisine, as well as a vegetarian option. The place settings alone provide the royal feeling – gold-trimmed plates and utensils, all emblazoned with the elegant crowned “M.”

It is easy to see how the Mayur Mahal (“Peacock Palace”) dining car got its name, decorated beautifully in green, blue and gold. The chairs and window shades (which won’t be pulled until night) feature peacock feather designs, all accentuated by the silver mirror-style ceiling. Meanwhile, the Rang Mahal is bright and cheery in pink and cream, with an elegantly hand-painted floral-design ceiling.

The food is good, and the staff is great. Some of my favorite dining touches – a new freshly squeezed fruit juice each morning; made-to-order espresso drinks; and a lengthy list of “mocktails,” nonalcoholic fruit juices which were so refreshing after a few hours of touring in the heat. There is also an on-board sommelier readily available at dinner to recommend wines, liqueurs or other after-dinner drinks.

Throughout my “Royal India” tour, the off-train excursions enhanced the “maharaja” feeling—including sipping champagne while watching the sun set on the Taj Mahal; a camel cart ride to a remote sand dune for “sundowner” barbecue and drinks; an exhibition elephant polo match, with option to join in; high tea at the Laxmi Vilas Palace in Vadodara; dinner in the royal courtyard of Jodhpur’s Meherangarh Fort, with dancers and musicians, ending with fireworks. In fact, merely exiting the train is exciting, with local dancers, musicians, or animals — camels in Bikaner, for example — greeting us at each stop.

A few special touches on this train: the water filtration system makes all food safe and the water drinkable (although I did not drink the water, I did use it for brushing my teeth); wi-fi is available in all cars (this was intermittent on my journey, but could be used to send the occasional e-mail); and there is a variety of touring options. Suite and Presidential Suite passengers get private car and guide at each stop, but there is the option for any passenger to do this along the way (at additional cost for Deluxe and Junior Suite guests). There are also options to visit spas in many locations and golf in either Jaipur or Vadodara.

All in all, it is difficult not to feel like royalty after taking the Maharajas’ Express. It is only difficult to drag yourself away from the comfort of the train and the care of the wonderful staff.  We are delighted to welcome this new train to the Society’s distinguished list of The World’s Top 25 Trains.

All photos ©The Society of International Railway Travelers by Angela Walker.  Ms. Walker is the VP for Operations for The Society of International Railway Travelers® and has reviewed trains all over the world, including the Royal Scotsman, Glacier Express, Bernina Express, Royal Canadian Pacific, Rocky Mountaineer, Deccan Odyssey, Hiram Bingham and Andean Explorer and the Shangri-La Express.

The Royal Scotsman’s Grand Tour-One Man’s Impression

5 Nov

IRT Society members dine aboard the Royal Scotsman, 2005.

Eleanor and I joined 17 IRT Society members in 2005 for an incredible week on the Royal Scotsman. As I’ve said elsewhere, the train ranks as one of the top three in our “life-list” of luxury trains collected over our 27-year career in this business.

But…we have not done the “Grand Tour of Great Britain.” And we’re envious of those who have.

Based on the reports we’re getting, this week-long jaunt  through Scotland, Wales and England looks fantastic. Looks to me like the Orient-Express company wants to make this tour an iconic “must-do,” much like the annual Paris-Istanbul run of their much acclaimed Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

IRT Society traveler Sam Hall did the trip this year and told me: “It’s one of the best trips I ever had. The staff was superb. And I was really impressed with the itinerary.”

Meanwhile, here’s how one of the Royal Scotsman staff, Train Host John Gritten, described the 2010 Grand Tour:

“This unique tour was without question the most memorable of my five years as Host with The Royal Scotsman. It was the train’s first ever journey around Scotland, England and Wales and the 33 guests, from nine countries, enjoyed many exclusive experiences throughout the seven-night trip. Many of the guests mentioned that unannounced ‘surprises,’ such as the Male Voice Choir at Gwydir Castle and Raymond Blanc’s personal welcome at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, were highlights of the journey. We are already thinking up new and unexpected special events for next year’s tour.”

Over the next few days, I’ll post Mr. Gritten’s day-by-day commentary of the 2010 Grand Tour, with appropriate links.

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express in Varna, Bulgaria

1 Sep

The annual Paris-Istanbul tour of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express reached Varna, Bulgaria Tuesday. From the sound of the press reports, the 12 IRT Society members aboard are basking in the glamor of this once-a-year extravaganza. Arriving today in Istanbul, the Orient-Express departs Friday, Sept. 3 on its final “land voyage” of the season. It is scheduled to arrive in Venice Sept. 9, where it will undergo routine maintenance until the beginning of next year’s season.

The annual Paris-Istanbul tour typically sells out a year in advance. Limited space is available on next year’s trip, which runs Sept. 2-7, as well as on next year’s Istanbul-Venice tour, which runs Sept. 9-14. For more information or to book, call (800) 478-4881 or email me at ohardy@irtsociety.com.

VSOE in Varna, Bulgaria

On the platform: staff from the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express in Varna, Bulgaria

IRT Welcomes Rovos Rail Representative

18 Jun

Men: longing for luxury on Rovos Rail’s “Pride of Africa,” but cringing at the thought of dragging a coat and tie half-way across the world to wear in the fancy diner?

IRT Staff and David Patrick Front Row (Left to Right): David Patrick, Owen Hardy Back Row: Margaret Langner, Eleanor Hardy, Angela Walker

No worries, says Rovos Rail marketing director David Patrick. They’ll gladly loan you one. They have a wide range of sizes. And there’s no extra charge. Just let them know ahead of time.

This was just one of several revelations made known during David’s recent visit to IRT headquarters in Louisville, KY. Others are:

• In-cabin minibar: Fill out the menu, and your bar will be filled with all your favorite drinks and snacks, David says. The staff restocks your goodies each day of your journey.  Instead of a hotel mini-bar, which has the implication of an extra charge, this is a “personal bar,” and everything is included in your tour price.

• All-inclusive fare: Everything except gratuities and gift shop purchases is included. That means: all your excursions, lectures, food, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, and, of course, everything in the minibar.

• Room Service: Run out of champagne? Need a snack? Simply attach the white Room Service tag outside your door or use your cabin phone to call, and the staff will get you anything you need.

• David’s favorite Rovos Rail journey: Surprise! It’s not Pretoria-Cape Town, the train’s most popular. It’s the special three-day safari between Pretoria and Durban departing during Africa’s summer months. “It includes a visit to a Big Five game reserve, which is fantastic,” David said. “We saw all five:” lion, African elephant, Cape Buffalo, leopard and Black Rhino. He also gives high marks to the once-a-year, nine-day “African Collage” tour, the only one which covers the “Garden Route” from George into Cape Town, at times skirting the Indian Ocean.

• Gratuities: The age-old question: how much to leave for a tip? “When asked,” David says, “we suggest 15 to 20 U.S. dollars per guest per day; maybe slightly less for the longer trips.”

Photo by Nels Freeman

• Beds: it’s crucial to let us know upon booking any mobility challenges you have and even your height. That way, we order the room most suited for you. Order far in advance for one of the limited number of cabins whose beds are configured in an L-shape. They’re easier to access than the usual king-size bed in the deluxe cabin.  Also, if you love a view, there is one exclusive cabin per car whose bed faces the window.

• Observation Car: For many IRT travelers,the outdoor platform is party central. Responding to popular demand, Rovos has enlarged the space to accommodate 12 sitting passengers—with their drinks.

• Rohan Vos: The brains and muscle behind the entire operation, Mr. Vos (Rohan, if you will) seems to be every returning traveler’s best friend. His secret? He works like a demon, knows every aspect of his operation and does his best to personally greet all Rovos Rail passengers, whether they’re boarding in Pretoria, Cape Town or elsewhere.

Photo by Nels Freeman

Meeting at Louisville’s classic Brown Hotel, IRT staff and David continued the discussion over dinner at the hotel’s English Grill that night. David had an early plane to catch the next morning, so there was no time for Kentucky sightseeing. Maybe next time!

Society owners Owen & Eleanor Hardy host one of Rovos Rail’s most ambitious trips, the July 2-15, 2011 Cape Town, S. Africa to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania trip. For information about this or any Rovos Rail trip, email us or call our office at (800) 478-4881. Or visit our website.

Ass Eats Donkey on Luxury Train

4 May

Kim Jong-IL, “Dear Leader” of North Korea, loves his Dad’s luxury train, dining daily on fresh donkey meat. He gives luxury trains a bad name. Read about it here.