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South Africa’s New Speedster: Gautrain

11 Aug

South Africa’s new “Gautrain” is fast, clean, comfortable and on time.

That’s what I learned following my test run of the service a few weeks ago, just prior to joining IRT’s Cape Town – Dar es Salaam Rovos Rail tour.

My trip was from Johannesburg O.R. Tambo Airport to shopping and tourist mecca Sandton City.

It’s easy to buy a Gautrain ticket. And once aboard, I found Gautrain staff to be friendly and helpful.  Security – always a concern in South Africa – was reassuringly visible, both inside the trains and at the stations.

Gautrain opened its doors in June 2010, just in time for the South Africa-hosted FIFA World Cup. The Gautrain’s 12.5-mile route is largely underground and on viaducts. It reaches speeds of up to 100 mph. The Bombardier-designed passenger cars are sleek and comfortable.

The project has not been without controversy, however. The system cost a whopping $4 billion to build; my one-way ticket, at about $18, is far out of the price range of most locals.

Also, the train was built to the North American standard gauge – 4’8 ½”, which is incompatible with South Africa’s 3’6” Cape Gauge. That restricts the possibilities for expansion, although Cape Gauge service from the airport to Pretoria just opened.

For me, however, the Gautrain was ideal. The service was a welcome alternative for air travelers who wish to avoid pricey and time-consuming taxi rides to Sandton City.

And any rail fan would enjoy the ride.

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Thriving on a Corner in Winslow, AZ: La Posada

16 Jun
La Posada Hotel

La Posada Hotel was built in 1929 by the Santa Fe Railroad. Bruce Anderson

If you ever find yourself on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, consider a stop in Winslow, Ariz. – and not just because it’s a line in the famous Eagles song (“standin’ on the corner in Winslow, Arizona”).

It’s also the home of La Posada, a former Santa Fe Railroad hotel, and one of architect Mary Colter’s grandest creations.

During the heyday of passenger rail travel in the United States, the Santa Fe built numerous “Harvey Houses” in the major western cities on its route. Many of these southwestern-themed buildings were designed by Colter, who also was responsible for hotels at several of the western national parks.

Grand Canyon Railroad

Steam charter on the Grand Canyon Railroad. Bruce Anderson

I recently had the pleasure of staying at this wonderfully restored hotel en route to a steam photo charter trip on the Grand Canyon Railroad.

La Posada’s career as a hotel ended in 1957, when rail travel also began to decline. But 40 years later, things changed, when artists Allan and Tina Affeldt bought the building and restored it to its former glory. Allan and Tina moved in and never looked back. They still live there today, and their restoration continues.

Southwest Chief

Amtrak's Southwest Chief stops daily at La Posada. B. Anderson

The inn has 22 guest rooms, the full-service “Turquoise Room” restaurant, a formal sunken garden, and best of all, an adjacent Amtrak station, which is served daily by the Chief.

The hotel is indeed a masterpiece of architecture and art.  It was voted one of the top 10 affordable hotels in the United States by TripAdvisor.com and one of the “World’s Best Places to Stay” by Condé Nast Traveler’s Gold List. Room rates range from $109 for a standard to $169 for larger accommodations. All are filled with historic photos, fine art, murals, full baths and views of the gardens. There are also plans to house a Route 66 museum in the Amtrak station.

I highly recommend this hotel for anyone interested in southwestern architecture and railroad history.  A true gem.

To reserve, call (928) 289-4366. Or reserve here on the hotel’s website. (Editor’s note: La Posada is not on the itinerary of the IRT Society’s “Grand Canyon Discovery by Amtrak” independent tour. But the tour could be customized to add La Posada.)

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‘Tong, Tong, Tong’ Goes The South Korean Music Cafe Train

7 Jun
Korean Tour TrainWe

Care to spend a sleepless night in an ear-splitting disco car?

What about visiting  – and possibly being marooned on – a South Korean island?

Welcome to the Tong Tong Tong Music Cafe Train, operated monthly by S. Korea’s Korail.

The two-day trip exploring the country’s major tourist attractions at the southern tip costs just $120, according to the Korea Times.

But “be aware that if you are non-Korean speaking foreigners, who want to enjoy peace of mind and privacy, it is not the tour for you.”

The action is in car six, the story says. There you can “either take a nap or enjoy belly dancing and live music performances.”

Sleep apparently is not on the itinerary, as the train leaves Seoul Station at 10:20 p.m., with stops throughout the night to pick up more revelers.

The first attraction is “a magnificent view of the Geoga Bridge,” although “at 4:30 a.m., it is too dark and too far away to have a good view.”

Also on the itinerary is a ferry ride to Oe Island and its subtropical English garden. But be sure to get your tour guide’s cell number.

“There is a good chance that you may be left alone on the scenic island unless you push through the crowds at the dock to catch your ferry.”

Email me at ohardy@irtsociety.com if you’d like the link to the entire story (some may find the surrounding ads offensive.).

Britain Ditches the Dining Car (What’s the World Coming To?)

20 May

Dinner in the diner: Eleanor Hardy aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

As I write this, the last patron on a publicly operated British dining car might be enjoying his last bite. Traditional, public dining car service in Britain is over.

“There will be lavish helpings of nostalgia aboard the 19.33 from London’s King’s Cross to Leeds,” said Michael Williams in yesterday’s Daily Mail. No matter. The bean-counters have decided that traditional railway dining cars have no business in Britain. Read Williams’ entire story here.

The news is sad but not surprising, as civilization in general, and public rail travel in particular, continue their downhill slide. True, there still are good meals to be had aboard Germany’s ICEs and in Switzerland’s main-line dining cars. Even Amtrak does its best with what it has. But the trajectory is unmistakable.

Williams quotes a transport analyst, Barry Doe, who claims dining cars could be profitable, if only the suits in accounting would realize the marketing potential of 200 or so hungry, captive customers on an 8-hour train ride.

We’ve certainly tried to do our part. Over the years, The International Railway Traveler has cheered on those brave souls who’ve tried to make dining cars profitable.

There was AB Svenska Orientexpressen, two traditional navy blue restaurant cars named after the owner’s grandmothers, which ran on trains of the Swedish State Railways.

There was McDonald’s brief experience with fast-food cars (complete with Golden Arches) on the railways of Switzerland, of all places.

And — at least until recently — in Capetown, South Africa, Biggsy’s Restaurant Carriage and Wine Bar was attached to the Cape Town-Simon’s Town commuter train.

The ventures failed in Sweden and Switzerland. And just now I tried phoning Biggsy’s, with “number no longer in service” the response (anyone have any info?).

IRT Society members enjoy dinner aboard the Royal Scotsman, 2005.

We love dining on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, Rovos Rail’s Pride of Africa and the Royal Canadian Pacific. And Britain’s sad news is all the more reason to enjoy the incredible fare on such trains as the British Pullman and the Royal Scotsman.

But the loss of genuine, full-service dining on the public rails brings us a step closer to an alien, digitized, impersonal world.

Or perhaps our readers know of public trains which still offer traditional, civilized dining experiences. If so, please let us know.

N. Spain Luxury Train Sets Schedule, Deals for 2012

18 May
Gran Lujo Lounge

Steward gazes from Gran Lujo lounge picture window

El Transcantábrico Gran Lujo – which means deluxe – was scheduled to take center stage last Saturday as the world’s newest luxury train. Its maiden voyage was to be Santiago de Compostela to San Sebastian. The service is operated by FEVE, the publicly owned narrow-gauge railroad for N. Spain.

FEVE also announced its 2012 Gran Lujo service schedule, which we’ve posted here. And travelers will be happy to learn the railroad will not raise its prices next year. Instead, prices are holding steady at the current rate.

More good news: FEVE confirmed that its popular “earlybird” discounts will remain in effect. These afford travelers over $500 off per cabin for booking more than 6 months before departure date; more than $350 for booking between 4 and 6 months in advance.

Finally, FEVE released additional photos of the new train, which show off its colorful new lounge car with picture window and multi-colored glass friezes. They’ve obviously sunk some money into this new train. For the full gallery, please click here. And here.

In other news, FEVE has extended the season of its almost sold-out Clasico El Transcantabrico program, an interesting development, and will continue the train into the winter. Itinerary and dates are here.  2012 dates and pricing are included, too. Prices are not changing much for this train for 2012.

Have you been  on this train — either the Clasico or Gran Lujo? If so, please let us know how you liked it. We thought it was great and well worthy of inclusion in our pantheon of the World’s Top 25 Trains.

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Magical Technical Tour: German High-Speed Rail

12 May
German ICE-3

Germany's 220 mph ICE-3

“This September’s German high-speed rail tour includes factory tours, the main station in Berlin and the airport station in Frankfurt,” said Rick Harnish today in an email. Harnish is executive director of the Midwest High Speed Rail Association and will lead the High Speed Germany journey September 17 – 24, 2011.

“We will ride both Siemens’ 220 mph ICE-3 and their 150 mph RailJet. We even managed to fit in a sleeper train [first-class German Rail City Night Line service Berlin-Munich].

RailJet

Austrian Federal Railway's 150-mph RailJet

“To top off the week, we will spend a night in Munich during Oktoberfest.  This trip is limited to 25 people, and the initial respond has been strong.  So, please call Eleanor Hardy at the Society of International Railway Travelers soon if you are interested [800-478-4881 within the U.S.; 502-454-0277 elsewhere]. Click here for the full itinerary.”

This is billed as a behind-the-scenes technical tour, but no one will mind if spouses wander away to shop, visit museums, ride trams or simply sit in cafés and watch the world go by.

Last year, we were honored to develop the journey High Speed France: An exploration of High-Speed Rail, Stations and Intermodal Transit. Participants gave the journey the highest ratings, returning to the US quite excited in their advocacy for rail. See this link to a great slide show about last year’s journey.

This year’s trip will be just as exciting.

Let us know if you want to join dynamic tour leader Rick Harnish on High Speed Germany. Don’t you wish you could hop aboard?

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New Luxe Train in Northern Spain Is Anything But Plain

5 May

Grand Lujo Luxury SuiteMay 15 marks the maiden public voyage of El Transcantábrico’s ‘Gran Lujo’ luxury service between San Sebastian and Santiago de Compostela, The International Railway Traveler® is delighted to report.  The new train is being unveiled now as we speak in Spain.

The trains’ seven Gran Lujo cars will accommodate 28 passengers in just two compartments per car—14 “Suites Privilege” in all.

Not only does that mean greater comfort and individual service on board. It also means smaller groups for touring and dining.

The suites can work for two or three passengers. They have double or twin lower beds — with lots of storage underneath — and the long sofa turns into a bed at night for a third person, if desired.

Luxury suites comprise double bed, lounge, ensuite facilities

Suites are equipped with wardrobe, plenty of luggage storage, a small but comfortable lounge area, two televisions, video game console, stereo, computer with free internet access, cordless phone, double air conditioning units, minibar and full bathroom with shower and steam sauna. (These are some of the fanciest showers we’ve ever seen on a train.) Our IRT guests on board El Transcantábrico last fall loved having the only Suite Privilege on board. The suites were so popular, the train manager told us in an interview, FEVE decided to build an entire train with them.

The train’s four cozy public cars include a newly designed lounge with panoramic window.

Ensuite facilities include toilet, sink and shower/steam sauna

Unlike most private trains, El Transcantábrico covers a modest distance: just 400 miles. Nights are spent parked at quiet sidings for restful sleep. Breakfast is always on board. Lunches and dinners are taken in an array of restaurants along the way, providing guests an unparalleled survey of the regions’ superb seafood, breads, cheeses and wines. All wines are included with lunch and dinner.

Each restaurant is world class, with its own specialties and seasonal dishes. And each region is almost a country within itself.

Daily visits off-train are made in a special Transcantábrico motorcoach, which accompanies the train throughout the journey, as does a multi-lingual guide. Among the highlights of the trip are visits to small villages;  towns like Oviedo with its pre-Romanesque monuments; and a visit to oustanding Picos de Europa National Park.

You’ll also love Bilbao’s ultramodern Guggenheim Museum as well as Santiago’s 935-year-old cathedral, terminus of the famed “Pilgrimage of St. James” as well as the reputed resting place of the Apostle. And finishing up — or starting — in San Sebastian, perched by the sea, and home of a world of exciting restaurants, is fabulous.

Dining car table lamp

Scenery ranges from rivers, mountains to broad seascapes

Best of all is the train itself and its friendly and experienced staff. El Transcantábrico has two lounges, one of which serves as a dining car for breakfast, a bar car and a ‘disco’ car with live music and a dance floor. Originally 1920s-era British Pullman coaches, they have been lovingly restored.

The price for this week of luxury is 3,750 Euros per person, double (about $5,575 US on 5/3/11). And that includes just about everything except air fare, gratuity to staff and incidentals. (We highly recommend pre- and post-tour  nights in both Santiago and San Sebastian. We can advise you which ones we loved.)

This year, the El Transcantábrico Gran Lujo service runs 25 times between Santiago and San Sebastian. Watch this site for 2012 schedule and prices. We’re told they will be revealed soon. And if it’s similar to this year, early booking pays off handsomely.

For more information, call (800) 478-4881 within the U.S., (502) 454-0277 elsewhere. To book now, click here.  If you’re interested in a date, we can confirm immediately if it’s available.

Once you check out the itinerary, please let us know what intrigues. We love this train, its staff and Northern Spain!

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Bargain LuxRail for Bunny-Quick Bookers

6 Apr

Rail travel bargains are popping up like crocus this spring on some of our World’s Top 25 Trains if you act by June 30:

Royal Scotsman

• Save $1,210 per person for 6-day Grand West Highland tours departing June 22nd and July 27.
• Free night at Edinburgh’s luxury Balmoral Hotel with any 3-day Highland journey booking.

More info: click here

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

• Free night at Venice’s fabulous Cipriani Hotel when two persons book a cabin suite on the 8-day northbound trip to Krakow, Dresden and London (subject to availability).

• Complimentary on-board credit (for drinks or items from the train boutique) on the 2-day London to Venice (or v.v.) trip: up to 400 Euro per couple or 150 Euro per single traveler.

More info: click here

Eastern & Oriental Express

• Book 4-day Bangkok-Singapore tour (or v.v.) by June 30, 2011 and receive one free night at the St. Regis in Bangkok and one night at the St. Regis in Singapore. Restrictions apply. This is for 2011 departures only.
• Take 25 percent off the regular per-person fare on the 3-day southbound Bangkok-Singapore tours departing Bangkok May 11, June 8 and July 6, 2011. Restrictions apply.
• Complimentary hotel nights pre- and post-tour on all Extended Tours; Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental for Epic Thailand and Laos Extended Tours; Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental and Singapore’s Raffles Hotel for Singapore-Bangkok and Bangkok-Singapore Extended Tours. Restrictions apply. This is for 2011 departures only.

Rocky Mountaineer

Book any 2011 Rocky Mountaineer vacation of 7 nights or more by June 30 and receive 2 for 1 airfare between select cities and Vancouver, Calgary or Toronto.

More info, please call 800-478-4881 or 502-454-0277

El Transcantábrico

Deep discounts (call for specifics) on this gem of a Spanish luxury train if you book as little as four months before departure. Best discounts are for September.  Availability is tight on many departures.

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World’s Top 25 Trains Luncheon at New York’s 21 Club April 1

25 Mar

Eleanor and Owen Hardy at Lake Baikal. The Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express is behind them. IRT Photo

Join Owen & Eleanor Hardy, owners of The Society of International Railway Travelers®, to get the latest on the Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express, India’s Toy Train and more. Please join us for a lovely and informative luncheon Friday, April 1 from noon to 2 p.m. at New York’s fabulous ’21 Club.’

Special guest and presenter: Ms. Marina Linke, of GW Travel, UK, whose company operates our tours through Russia, China, India, and the Silk Road route. Marina, born in Russia, has been with GW almost from the beginning and has been an integral factor in its success.

To get your invitation, click here.

Hope to see you in New York April 1.

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Business Class – Shinkansen Style

3 Mar

JR ad for the new Shinkansen 'Hayabusa' trains running on the high-speed Tokyo-Aomori route.

Japan’s new class of “Hayabusa” trains on the high-speed Tohoku shinkansen route between Tokyo and Aomori feature, according to the Wall Street Journal’s JapanRealTime, a luxury 18-seat ” GranClass” car.

Says the WSJ: they are “reminiscent of business-class air travel, with plush leather seats that recline by up to 45 degrees, as well as…a dedicated cabin attendant.

“On board you can sample edible regional delicacies or take advantage of the offer of free drinks, which a spokesman at JR East confirmed will include alcohol.  ‘Refills are allowed,’ he said.”

Not the Eastern & Oriental Express, but a welcome addition to upscale, high-speed rail travel.

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